as it is with very posh Thais. Like most places in the city these days, Bed enforces a strict dress code, which means shell suits and flip-flops are out and loafers and frilly shirts are in.

If you’re feeling poorer than the average well-dressed bed entrant, then head around the corner to Cheap Charlie’s on Soi 11 opposite the Ambassador Hotel (the hand stamp will let you back inside the club later). An institution for 20 years, this little place is functional and, yes, cheap, with one of the most bizarre bars you’ll ever see, that looks a bit like a forest with liquor bottles tangled in its many branches. Just use your imagination.

Back in Bed, the steep entry price gets you a drink, including cocktails, which-if you ask for one at the barman’s discretion-usually turns out to be something colourful and sour with a hefty kick, although you’ll undoubtedly not have a clue what’s in it. A few of these and you might find yourself sprawled out on the big, comfy beds that run around the outside of the dance floor, hence the name.



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Bangkok Nightlife

Bangkok. It’s quite sticky and sweaty, notorious for ladies that once upon a time were men and remains partial to some classic pseudo-English phraseology such as “I love you long time” and “same same.”

Even the name sounds dodgy. In short, Thailand’s capital is the subject of more unpleasant stereotypes than just about any other major city in the Far East, if not the world. But in the past few years things have changed-Bangkok has cleaned up its act, for better or worse, and turned tackiness into something approaching chic.

There is perhaps no better example of this than places like Bed Supper Club on Sukhumvit 55 Soi 10, a venue that looks like it’s made of fluorescent lego and charges a whopping 600 baht entry (about US $17). Having opened a few years ago, this place has taken Bangkok by storm and is as popular with slightly posh foreigners
If you’re looking for some Latin beats, live percussion and decent wine then Jazzit is the place. This is a Thai-Italian club that serves local food along with pasta and pizza early on and then continues to 2am and sometimes a little longer, as is the case with most of the venues along this well-known entertainment strip near the Petchaburi Subway station. Very random themed parties are common in Jazzit at the weekends.

One thing to remember in and around RCA especially, and indeed everywhere out in Bangkok, is to bring photo identification, which means a passport if you’re a foreigner. Without one you won’t get into most places and horror stories for those that forget are common.
This place attracts a regular line up of international DJs specializing in house music that skips along until about 2am, the time most clubs close in Bangkok and indeed the rest of Thailand since the law on opening hours was strictly enforced in 2002.

Somewhere open a little later, but not much, is RCA off Rama IX Road, an area jam-packed with clubs and bars that seems to attract mostly Thais but a good share of foreigners. The ever-popular Club Astra is located here, a huge venue that plays a good deal of hip hop, r’n’b and drum‘n’bass courtesy of local and international DJs, with big nights at the weekend.
A favourite trick of the Thai police in recent years has been to target clubs on drug raids, which means the entire human contents of the venue doing a piss test. In the past, foreigners-including diplomats from overseas embassies-have been caught with their trousers down without a passport, resulting in a night behind bars. This area is notorious for such raids but don’t let that put you off, this is a great place to go out with a lot of choice.

Along with RCA, Silom is the most well-known after hours area in Bangkok and home to the ever-present Patpong, favourite play den of US troops on ‘R and R’ during the Korean War and many a male expat since.
Soi 1 remains the tackiest girly bar district in this area, but like most of Silom, visitors that were here ten years ago would almost not recognize it-times have changed. It is still tacky to an extent but much tamer and there is an increasing number of more sophisticated venues spring up. Ping-pong sex shows and go-go venues with names like “Super Pussy” and “Spit Roast” can still be found here in abundance though. I tend to blindfold my children when walking around in this area, even in the day.

Just across the block, soi 2 and 4 mark the epicentre of Bangkok’s gay universe-two little streets packed wall-to-wall with bars, dance venues and leather trousers. This area has become increasingly straight friendly thanks to places like Tapas, a very popular bar with live music at weekends and comfy seats upstairs, although on Fridays and Saturdays it can get uncomfortably packed.

Like many a scene in Bangkok, the gay community has resorted to private parties when almost all the clubs and bars shut at around 2 to 2:30am. Nowadays, Bangkok’s licensing laws are strictly enforced meaning that bars close at 1am and clubs an hour later, but there are a few exceptions. For those that want to keep going until late, this usually entails latching onto some locals that know the late gay scene and can get you in.

Most such gatherings are held across the city in private residences charging a cover price that includes as much cheap rum and whisky with mixers as you can drink until after the sun comes up. Projector-screen hardcore gay porn is included for free, as is the music and buff men dancing with their shirts off.

If this isn’t your thing, again, you’ll need to cosy up to someone who knows what is going on. Bangkok’s upper class, and particularly the expat community, will sometimes hire out a hotel room when carrying on late, but there are often rundown bars open until four if you ask the right tuk-tuk driver.

Ask the wrong one and you’ll probably get driven all over the city, charged a lot of money and told that the place he was talking about when you were first lured into the back of his tuk-tuk is actually already shut up.

Unfortunately, that’s all part of the new Bangkok.

David Wells - May 1, 2007

 
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