Delhi, Vientiane is the perfect place to relax when the rest of Asia just seems too hectic. Built along a curve on the mighty Mekong River, the city has some great scenery and attractive Buddhist architecture, the most famous of which is That Luang, a 16th Century golden temple, the country symbol of the country.
One of the most satisfying parts of any visit to Vientiane though surely has to be the great opportunities for eating and drinking out. Aside from the excellent, and very cheap, beer on offer, Vientiane also has to rank as one of the best value destinations for high quality French cuisine. A welcome legacy from its colonial days, Vientiane is home to a wealth of very good French restaurants where you’ll be able to order steaks from as little as US $3 and a glass of red wine starting at US $1.50. Many of the best options are dotted along the riverfront and the well-known fountain pedestrian area, where you’ll also find a selection of Mexican, Italian and Indian eateries, along with, of course, Laotian restaurants specializing in curries and noodles.
One of the most satisfying parts of any visit to Vientiane though surely has to be the great opportunities for eating and drinking out. Aside from the excellent, and very cheap, beer on offer, Vientiane also has to rank as one of the best value destinations for high quality French cuisine. A welcome legacy from its colonial days, Vientiane is home to a wealth of very good French restaurants where you’ll be able to order steaks from as little as US $3 and a glass of red wine starting at US $1.50. Many of the best options are dotted along the riverfront and the well-known fountain pedestrian area, where you’ll also find a selection of Mexican, Italian and Indian eateries, along with, of course, Laotian restaurants specializing in curries and noodles.
A Guide to Laos | Getting Back to Nature
Laos is perhaps most famous for two things-bombs and beer. During the Vietnam War and the ensuing secret campaign conducted by the Americans in Indo China in the 1970s, this little country in the middle of mainland Southeast Asia became the most bombed country ever. But since then though Laos has turned this unfortunate reputation on its head.
Visitors nowadays come to enjoy the slow pace of things and the beer, Lao Beer, which is receiving increasing recognition on the world stage as a particularly fine brew. Indeed, the country as a whole is making a name for itself as the place to unwind in mainland Southeast Asia.
Relaxing in Laos' Capital
Vientiane is a capital like no other. Built on a miniscule scale compared to the likes of Bangkok, Beijing and
Visitors nowadays come to enjoy the slow pace of things and the beer, Lao Beer, which is receiving increasing recognition on the world stage as a particularly fine brew. Indeed, the country as a whole is making a name for itself as the place to unwind in mainland Southeast Asia.
Relaxing in Laos' Capital
Vientiane is a capital like no other. Built on a miniscule scale compared to the likes of Bangkok, Beijing and
Off the Beaten Track
Travel outside the capital can be trying if you plan to do so overland. Laos is not well-known for its roads, which become treacherous in the rainy season when sections are often washed away. There is no rail network. Travel by bus generally takes a long time and can be cramped but often well worth it given the stunning scenery in many parts of the country. Buses generally depart early in the morning and almost never travel overnight.
Another added complication is the relatively infrequent attacks by bandits on motor vehicles outside the capital. Still, in the most part, Laos is very safe. Crime levels are particularly low, especially compared to many western countries.
A visit then to the country’s second city, Luang Prabang, either requires a short trip of about 40 minutes by plane on the national carrier Lao Airlines or a bus journey of about 11 hours heading north. Either way, it’s well worth it. Like Vientiane, Luang Prabang is perched on the edge of the Mekong River. Somehow though, the town manages to maintain an atmosphere that is even more relaxed than the capital. It’s a great place to spend a few days strolling around the temples, which have now been protected since the town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Luang Prabang is surrounded by rolling cliffs thick with jungle that also offer opportunities for longer walks and even trekking and climbing. See local tour agents for further details. Prices are very reasonable-treks in the vicinity of Luang Prabang typically cost about US $20 a day and whitewater rafting a little more at around US $35 a day.
Travel outside the capital can be trying if you plan to do so overland. Laos is not well-known for its roads, which become treacherous in the rainy season when sections are often washed away. There is no rail network. Travel by bus generally takes a long time and can be cramped but often well worth it given the stunning scenery in many parts of the country. Buses generally depart early in the morning and almost never travel overnight.
Another added complication is the relatively infrequent attacks by bandits on motor vehicles outside the capital. Still, in the most part, Laos is very safe. Crime levels are particularly low, especially compared to many western countries.
A visit then to the country’s second city, Luang Prabang, either requires a short trip of about 40 minutes by plane on the national carrier Lao Airlines or a bus journey of about 11 hours heading north. Either way, it’s well worth it. Like Vientiane, Luang Prabang is perched on the edge of the Mekong River. Somehow though, the town manages to maintain an atmosphere that is even more relaxed than the capital. It’s a great place to spend a few days strolling around the temples, which have now been protected since the town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Luang Prabang is surrounded by rolling cliffs thick with jungle that also offer opportunities for longer walks and even trekking and climbing. See local tour agents for further details. Prices are very reasonable-treks in the vicinity of Luang Prabang typically cost about US $20 a day and whitewater rafting a little more at around US $35 a day.
Another mainstay of the colonial days is the humble baguette, which seems to have been officially adopted as an integral part of Laotian cuisine. On most street corners you’ll find vendors selling freshly baked French bread with more typically Southeast Asian fillings including roasted pork and a Laos-style pate that is popular for breakfast.
Among the many French restaurants, up-market cafes and bars are also springing up, giving Vientiane a somewhat cosmopolitan feel in its own, very unique, way.
Hotels in the capital are unsurprisingly good value. Backpacker lodges start at less than US $5, with everything in between right up to the mostly new five-star international hotels at over US $100 a night.
When it comes to money, things can get extremely confusing. In Vientiane especially, three currencies are used-the national currency, the Kip, the US dollar and Thai baht. Indeed, Thai currency seems to have increasingly become the preferred choice among Vientiane locals, probably because it is so widely used to purchase goods just across the border. Thailand is just 25km away from the Laotian capital, south across the Mekong, and is therefore a convenient crossing point for travelers coming from Bangkok. It is therefore best to keep all three currencies handy, although US dollars, as always, are likely to prove the most useful in remoter parts of the country.
Among the many French restaurants, up-market cafes and bars are also springing up, giving Vientiane a somewhat cosmopolitan feel in its own, very unique, way.
Hotels in the capital are unsurprisingly good value. Backpacker lodges start at less than US $5, with everything in between right up to the mostly new five-star international hotels at over US $100 a night.
When it comes to money, things can get extremely confusing. In Vientiane especially, three currencies are used-the national currency, the Kip, the US dollar and Thai baht. Indeed, Thai currency seems to have increasingly become the preferred choice among Vientiane locals, probably because it is so widely used to purchase goods just across the border. Thailand is just 25km away from the Laotian capital, south across the Mekong, and is therefore a convenient crossing point for travelers coming from Bangkok. It is therefore best to keep all three currencies handy, although US dollars, as always, are likely to prove the most useful in remoter parts of the country.
In the south of the country there are two destinations of note that regularly attract tourists although they are still relatively untravelled compared to Luang Prabang, Vientiane and Vang Vieng. Savanakhet is a friendly little town right on the Thai border with a wealth of old colonial architecture, which, like Vientiane, lies right on the Mekong. To get there, you can cross directly from Thailand or catch a 10-hour bus from the capital.
Vang Vieng
If you have more time in Laos than you might consider breaking up the overland journey between Vientiane and Luang Prabang with a stop in Vang Vieng (also spelt Vang Viang), which is equidistant between the two. Vang Vieng, now a well-known haven for backpackers, offers a wealth of outdoor activities including tubing, which involves riding an inflatable down a section of the Nam Xong River. Other outdoor pursuits popular in the town, which is surrounded by stunning limestone mountains, include kayaking and climbing.
If you have more time in Laos than you might consider breaking up the overland journey between Vientiane and Luang Prabang with a stop in Vang Vieng (also spelt Vang Viang), which is equidistant between the two. Vang Vieng, now a well-known haven for backpackers, offers a wealth of outdoor activities including tubing, which involves riding an inflatable down a section of the Nam Xong River. Other outdoor pursuits popular in the town, which is surrounded by stunning limestone mountains, include kayaking and climbing.
Southern Border with Cambodia
Right on the southern tip of the country near the border with Cambodia, Si Phan Don is perhaps Laos’ most scenic area where the Mekong disseminates into hundreds of smaller channels and streams separating the land into intricately carved islands and sandbars, some of which are inhabited. Travellers can stay on the islands or hop between them on boats in an attempt to spot the elusive Irrawaddy Dolphin, a now rare species that occupies the waters in the area.
Wildlife and natural beauty are surely the highlight of Laos. In a region that prides itself on development, economics and growth, Laos has managed to stay with the game while maintaining its heritage and natural environment, making it a largely unspoiled travel destination and a welcome place to relax if the likes of Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh City get a little too hectic.
Although Laos has become markedly more popular among tourists in the past decade, it still retains a certain untouched quality that has become increasingly difficult to find in the region. The question is though, of course, how long this can last.
Simon Garrison - November 29, 2006
Right on the southern tip of the country near the border with Cambodia, Si Phan Don is perhaps Laos’ most scenic area where the Mekong disseminates into hundreds of smaller channels and streams separating the land into intricately carved islands and sandbars, some of which are inhabited. Travellers can stay on the islands or hop between them on boats in an attempt to spot the elusive Irrawaddy Dolphin, a now rare species that occupies the waters in the area.
Wildlife and natural beauty are surely the highlight of Laos. In a region that prides itself on development, economics and growth, Laos has managed to stay with the game while maintaining its heritage and natural environment, making it a largely unspoiled travel destination and a welcome place to relax if the likes of Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh City get a little too hectic.
Although Laos has become markedly more popular among tourists in the past decade, it still retains a certain untouched quality that has become increasingly difficult to find in the region. The question is though, of course, how long this can last.
Simon Garrison - November 29, 2006
Patuxai, Vientiane's Arc de Triomphe
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